From his Milanese stronghold in Porta Nuova, Chef Andrea Berton reflects on his culinary philosophy and the direction of contemporary Italian cuisine

Italian Cuisine Today: Quality, Lightness, and Modern Identity

“People have never eaten as well in Italy as in the last four or five years,” begins Michelin-starred Chef Andrea Berton, discussing how Italian cuisine has evolved and where it is headed. The geometry of glass and steel in his restaurant mirrors the rigor and minimalism of his cooking. With its soft evening lighting, Ristorante Berton feels suspended in time — we could be in Manhattan, yet we are in the heart of futuristic Porta Nuova.

“Italian cuisine has improved in quality, and the perception abroad has changed,” Berton explains. “It’s no longer limited to the cliché of ‘mom’s cooking.’ The traditional aspect doesn’t represent us as much anymore.”

For him, the modernity of Italian cuisine lies in the intelligent renewal of tradition: lighter, more essential, yet uncompromising in quality. “The quality of raw materials remains,” he adds. “And in this evolution, Milan has played a decisive role, becoming a true hub of international cuisine in the last decade.”

Milan as a Global Culinary Capital

Today, Milan accounts for more than 5 percent of all food services in Italy and hosts about one-seventh of all wine bars. It is also home to the headquarters of major food delivery companies and a magnet for visiting top chefs, events, and collaborations.

After Expo 2015, the world exhibition dedicated to food, the city saw an explosion of starred restaurants, bistros, food markets, and culinary events. “Fifteen or twenty years ago, we used to go abroad to discover new trends,” Berton recalls. “Now, it’s others who come to Milan.”

The Heart of Ristorante Berton: Raw Materials and the Art of Selection

At Ristorante Berton, everything begins with raw materials. “Our job must lead us to select quality ingredients without having to declare it,” the chef explains. “The added value lies in the choice of suppliers — people we trust and collaborate with closely.”

During game season, for example, the restaurant sources roe deer from the Tuscan-Emilian Apennines, one of Italy’s richest and most sustainable habitats. The same rigor applies to vegetable suppliers and truffle hunters. “Truffles are our pride,” Berton notes. “From Alba to Umbria to Tuscany — they’re uniquely Italian and highly sought after abroad.”

The Signature of Chef Andrea Berton: The Broth as Protagonist

Among Berton’s many contributions to Italian haute cuisine, one stands out — he has made broth a protagonist. It becomes the fil rouge of the menu, condensing the quintessence of flavor.

“The flavors in the broth are concentrated,” he explains. “The ingredient’s essence fully emerges.” His prosciutto broth is particularly emblematic: “I need to give it the right umami — to enhance the flavor of the prosciutto and make it delicious even in liquid form.”

Umami — that fifth taste identified in Japan — captures the savoriness of Berton’s broths. It’s the sensory link between tradition and innovation, simplicity and depth.

Exploring the Grill: Ancient Technique, Modern Spirit

Chef Berton continues to experiment with grilled cuisine, a direction rather than a return. “This cooking method, though ancient, is part of modernity,” he says. “New vegetable-based coals release less smoke, making grilling healthier while better preserving the natural taste of ingredients.”

Design and Atmosphere: Transparency and Harmony at Ristorante Berton

At Ristorante Berton, a glass wall divides the dining room from the kitchen, inviting guests to witness the choreography of the brigade. The most exclusive seat is the Carrozza Table, a wooden alcove that offers an intimate yet immersive view of the kitchen’s rhythm and precision.

The restaurant’s design reflects the chef’s philosophy: rigorous, minimal, and transparent, where nothing is superfluous and every element has meaning.

A New Architectural Chapter: The Permanent Dehors by DriussoAssociati

In the heart of Milan’s Porta Nuova district, Ristorante Berton has recently expanded its space with a new permanent outdoor area designed by architect Franco Driusso of DAA DriussoAssociati | Architects, in collaboration with Chef Berton himself. Conceived as a natural extension of the restaurant, the dehors is an elegant, sustainable, and all-season environment made possible by advanced technological solutions. It features radiant heating and controlled ventilation, reflective Stopsol glass with movable sunshades, an entrance portal in Fenix NTM equipped with an air blade, and a perimeter brise-soleil in burnished aluminum. The flooring is made of 100% regenerable WPC, combining resilience and sustainability.

Every material was chosen for its functionality, durability, and aesthetic refinement, while the five bespoke monolithic tables in Jatoba Brown stoneware are true handcrafted sculptures created for the comfort of guests. The result is a space that seamlessly blends design innovation, environmental awareness, and fine dining hospitality, embodying the same rigor and balance that define Berton’s cuisine.

Sustainability Beyond the Plate: Well-Being Inside the Kitchen

For Chef Andrea Berton, sustainability extends beyond raw materials, waste reduction, and circular practices. It includes the well-being of his team.

“I want to create a healthy environment for everyone,” he explains. “When I started at 20, kitchens could reach 40°C, with unbearable humidity. Here, it never goes above 26–27°C in summer. We have continuous air circulation and clean air at all times.”

His brigade includes 15 team members, aged between 25 and 30. Three key figures assist in the restaurant’s leadership: Restaurant Manager Gianluca Laserra, Sommelier Luca Enzo Bertè, Executive Chef Simone Sangiorgi, and Sous Chef Leonardo Manetta.

Andrea Berton: From Friuli to Michelin Stardom

Born in Friuli in 1970, Andrea Berton began his culinary journey in Milan as part of Gualtiero Marchesi’s brigade on Via Bonvesin della Riva. His international training included prestigious kitchens such as Mossiman’s in London, Enoteca Pinchiorri in Florence, and Louis XV in Monaco under Alain Ducasse.

From 1997 to 2001, he led Taverna di Colloredo in Monte Albano, earning his first Michelin star. Later, as head chef at Ristorante Trussardi alla Scala in Milan, he received multiple accolades — one Michelin star in 2008, a second in 2009, three forks from Gambero Rosso in 2010, and three hats from L’Espresso in 2011.

In 2012, he co-founded Pisacco Restaurant & Bar and, in 2013, Dry Milano Cocktail & Pizza. His return to a purely personal culinary expression came with the opening of Ristorante Berton in December 2013.

Here, he presents “modern dishes” where ingredients remain recognizable yet elevated. The restaurant earned a Michelin star in 2014, and Berton was named EXPO Chef Ambassador in 2015. Today, he continues to expand his global consulting work in the hospitality sector.

Porta Nuova: The Futuristic Home of Ristorante Berton

Ristorante Berton is located in the heart of Porta Nuova, Milan’s most forward-looking district. Construction of the complex began in 2005 and spanned a decade, transforming a vast 340,000-square-meter area into a vibrant urban ecosystem. It includes 57,000 square meters of offices, 11,000 square meters of retail space, 160,000 square meters of pedestrian areas, and 20,000 square meters dedicated to culture, along with luxury residences, underground parking, and architecture signed by over twenty internationally renowned designers.

At the crossroads of design, innovation, and gastronomy, Porta Nuova perfectly embodies Chef Berton’s vision: a synthesis of rigor, lightness, and modern Italian identity.